2020+ AWD Ford Escape: Power Transfer Unit Service Procedure

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_video link="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNs7va19a-8"][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text][/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]hey guys what's happening welcome back to the ford type meculoco channel today we're going to show you how to change the ptu fluid on 2020 and newer ford escapes so of course 2020 is a next generation escape and there's a lot of improvements on it and the biggest one being for us is serviceability so the ptu is bolted to the side of the transaxle it's right in this general area right here so of course we need to jack the vehicle up we need to pull off this cover and then we can get to it the great part about it is that it has a both a fill and a drain plug on there which is great really easy to service i would service these every 30 000 miles let's get started first things first you want to jack your vehicle up so you can get underneath here it's gonna be tight so you want to jack it up get it on some jack stands at all four corners so the vehicle is level for filling it up so right here is a jacking point right here right here and then right here right here on the pinch well if you're unsure make sure you check your owner's manual it will tell you in there exactly where the jacking points are in your vehicle so get it up on four jack stands so the vehicle is nice and level and then we could go ahead and start taking down this shield right here so you have access to the ptu all right let's get after it if i didn't mention it already this procedure is specific to 2020 and newer ford escape ptus okay they're totally different different fluid different procedure everything okay so let's go ahead and pull a shield off right here it looks like they're using seven mil screws instead of the t30s now that's a welcome change and so far i see metal uh nuts on there yeah instead of the plastic that's another real nice surprise on the older ones these bolts used to just spin and these shields will fall off all the time the other thing i notice is right here coming in there's a scoop right here just for the ptu to keep it cool built right into the shield on here direct that airflow all right there's a bunch of them all over the place but they're regular seven mil screws you know seven millimeter head on there one right here it has a little hooks in the front here it doesn't fall on your head and it looks like at this point it's ready to go just have to kind of pull it down a little bit and back it'll unhook and pull it forward and unhook from back here all right quick note here this procedure only applies to air cooled ptus if you have a coolant cooled ptu procedure is basically the same except you need to pull the cooler off there to gain access to drain the unit out of there so looking underneath the vehicle here we have the engine oil pan and the transmission and back behind it tucked up in here is the ptu you can see this whole unit from here all the way over is the ptu so it's much bigger than it was in the past and the reason being is they've now added this gear box section with the drive motor and shift fork it looks a little something like this inside of there shift f4 we have the motor the gears and the shift fork here to actually separate the rear drive shaft so when all-wheel drive is not needed it simply disconnects right here at the ptu and the rear drive shaft doesn't no longer spins until it's called for so you increase fuel efficiency that way either way the procedure to service this ptu is very very simple got a drain plug right here nice big hole on it so it's a 3h drive for your ratchet and then up inside of here you can see right here is the fill plug and it's eight millimeter hex so that hex looks something like this so make sure you have eight millimeter uh allen wrench on hand or hex socket like this before you get started once you have that we can go ahead get our drain pack pan ready and start draining it out once you get an inconsistent drip like this or a very thin stream coming out of there we're good to go we can go ahead and button it back up and install the drain plug so again make sure your drain plug is good to go magnets cleaned off on there seal is good to go no damage to it and we can go ahead and reinstall it on there so what i'll do is i'll go in stick my finger in the threads here clean the threads and of course the mating surface on here this plug requires no sealant on it it has the gasket built into it get nice and clean i'll spin it on by hand so we can snug it up and the torque spec on here is 30 foot pounds okay so what you can do is you use a 3 8 like this hopefully you can see it yeah and just simply choke up on it come up to the center here the point of the rotation instead of out here and you get rid of your your leverage okay so you do initial tightening on it okay we hit it we're snug and then a little bit more okay so i'm gonna go ahead and torque mine to 30 and we'll see how close we are to it right there you know so it's right there doing it by hand so let's make sure it's good to go and then come to this side over here and we can start filling it up moving on let's go ahead and fill the ptu back up now filling the ptu is just as easy as draining it you want to make sure you have the motorcraft 75 w85 fluid on hand it should take one quart or less okay also make sure you have a hand pump like this on hand so you can fill it back up we're simply gonna fill it through the fill plug on here on the side of the ptu you can see it right there we're gonna fill it until it starts streaming out of here and then we're just gonna let it sit for a while and level out to the bottom of the threads and then we're gonna install the fill plug okay so you can get to it from down below here really easy or also through the opening right here in the wheel well you can see it right there it's very easy to access so we're gonna go ahead and start pumping the fluid in there until it starts pouring out all right i have the pump attached to the bottle i'm just coming in right here next to the a half shaft here to get my nozzle inside of there there we go and we should be able to start pumping up this point it's probably the longest part of the job it's going to take a little while to pump this full court into there not too much came out here so i'm sure it's probably less than a quart currently the workshop manual doesn't even have a spec for the fill capacity of this of this ptu but we'll find out here in a minute these vehicles are so new keep pumping it into there and fill it up till it starts pouring out so you can see right there it's starting to drain out of there you want to pump some more into there though and really make sure it's coming out and not just splashback so go ahead and pull our hose out at this point just stuck in the threads i'm still not happy with that i am going to really make sure this thing's full because there's like an actuator right inside of there and you want to make sure it's full on the end either way we're going to overfill it like this and we're gonna let it drain out i'm just gonna go ahead and put the whole court inside of there now we're starting to get a more consistent flow out of there and we know it's full no question about it so we'll get our hose out of here and the other nice thing is we're stripping right now it's coming right past the the subframe on here so we're not making a huge mess while it's leveling out it seems they were really thinking when they were building these vehicles once the fluid has had a chance to level out and we're getting this inconsistent drip like this we're good to go we can put the fill plug back in the sealant you want to use the permatex thread sealant i'll link to it down below for you guys and you just want to put a thin layer all the way around the plug okay and we're going to get up in there and we're going to put the plug in by hand now a torque spec on here is 133 inch pounds and then an additional 360 degrees on it which i think it's absolutely nuts so we're gonna do is we're gonna simply just gonna snug it up and tighten it by hand remember it's just a fill plug we need to snug it down and that's it okay so we'll clean up any kind of mess in here like i said it misses the subframe it's great and then i'm just going to use my ratchet and my 8mm socket and we're just simply going to snug it up you'll feel it's starting to get tight and you simply give a little more and that's it you don't want to crack the case just snug it up and we can go ahead and clean it up there it is so at this point our fill plug's good to go our drain plug is good to go we're fill the fluid it's time to put the shield back on and that is all there is to it you want to change its fluid every 30 000 miles uh this will save the ptu from self-destruction i see it all the time on the older ones here and with this one having both a fill and a drain plug very easy to access there's no reason to not get in there and change the fluid on there and maintain your vehicle that's all for now i'll see you guys next time<br><!-- wp:image {"id":1776,"sizeSlug":"large","linkDestination":"none"} -->rn<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img class="wp-image-1776" src="https://en.videoencontexto.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/2020_AWD_Ford_Escape_Power_Transfer_Unit_Service_Procedure_tNs7va19a-8.jpg" alt="2020+ AWD Ford Escape: Power Transfer Unit Service Procedure" /></figure>rn<!-- /wp:image -->[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

2020+ AWD Ford Escape: Power Transfer Unit Service Procedure

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