IFSC Youth World Championships Voronezh 2021 || Lead final YA women & J women

IFSC Youth World Championships Voronezh 2021 || Lead final YA women & J women

i heard hmm you say first hello and welcome to the climbing youth world championships in verona russia today we have some league hello and welcome to the climbing youth world championships in burnage russia my name is matt groom and today we have a packed morning for you we have the youth a female lead finals and after that the junior female lead finals and they’ll be taking place on that red and white root on the right hand side of your screen that’s the stats for russia 23 degrees outside 32 humidity but we are inside the stadium here today so it’s nice and cool perfect temperatures for the athletes to show off all of their skills and if you’ve been watching us all week you’ll know how much climbing we’ve been getting through semi-finals finals lots of action sends falls some wonderful moments so today we’re going to be starting with the youth a climbers will be climbing one at a time on that wall we can see and it’s uh it’s an interesting route i was chatting to the root setters earlier on and power resistance is key on that thing lisa novak should be out first followed by cali close maracata janos will be following her anika will be out next ariane franken alexandre todd cover sarah chopka and alicia maboni from italy we’ll finish things off that’s our finalists they qualified yesterday it was a bit of a marathon of a semi-finals we had two back-to-back and then we switched immediately to the bouldering and i do implore you to go and check out the men’s bouldering finals from last night what an exciting round that was epic sends all round we’re minutes away now the athletes had their observation time they’ve seen the route they’ve checked it out they’ve done their air climbing and they’re ready to attempt to send this brutal route starting on the right he climbs into that corner and traverses out right towards the flower power feature you can see the petal shaped volumes in the middle of the wall that’s where our first cruxes are we’ll then continue towards the big red volume the circular thing there’s a slight rest there and i do mean slight rest and then they have to launch up towards the vertical head well where crimps beckon finishing high up on the top of the wall well any of our athletes managed to finish this route time will tell but we have some serious talent in the house today finals time always an exciting nerve-wracking moment the athletes were waiting in the isolation area early it’s peaceful in there it’s calm then they take the walk around the side of our stadium to the backstage area and all the time the crowd noise is build you can hear the music pumping and finally their weight behind those flags you can see on the left hand side of your screen they’ll tie in backstage walk out with their b layer and face the route everyone’s ready for the action the russian crew who are managing these shots they’re poised in the commentary box with me judges waiting nerve-wracking job they have and of course the resetters who have been putting up fantastic routes for us all week they’ll be waiting to see if their creation works so things are tense here in the stadium i know you back home if you’ve managed to get up early and watch us then hello please do send all of your support for the athletes climbing today so lisa novak from slovenia she’ll be out first 16 year old qualified in last for this final from the semi-finals you can see the cameraman down on the bottom waiting buzzers in the background sweaty hands all round there is lisa novak coming out onto the stage a little jog to start chalking up as she goes all-round athlete competing in speed and lead a couple of boulder comps as well in her time lastly come she did came forth so certain potential for the top half of the finals and maybe we’ll see her first podium here today let’s find out how she deals with this route so lisa starts off pulling through these red volumes it is actually quite a tricky start to this often the root setters put something quite steady at the beginning but it’s immediately crimpy as lisa disappears into the corner of this route and then up to the big side pools and now we can see our graphic on the left-hand side of the screen starting at the start of the blue section ending at the top and the yellows and be able to watch our athletes progress and of course how they’re doing compared to the other competitors so lisa novak a couple of tricky moves early on here in order to get established through this first overhanging section there’s a bit of a swing coming up here she needs to come up into the crimps and then bump right into a big old jug that we’ll see in a second but there is that big white jug root centers i feel like able to stop the swing by kicking onto that volume but let’s see how they deal with it because obviously all the athletes have different styles different ways of doing this so she needs to swing around nice and easy foot up and you can see quite a physical start to this route into the undercling and then into flower power these small crimps eyes it up bumps for the first one it’s a high foot into the second and she’ll need to make a clip here and she does and then more crimps coming up five clips in at the moment remember the athletes have to clip all the quick draws on the way up that route and lisa just taking a moment here you can see quite difficult she decides to match she’s got to get a high left foot up at some point but she goes for the side pull first of all immediately having to battle and she rocks up physical fingery moves early on up into the slope up and she’s about to enter the first resting position really on this route the first and only but a big move in order to get into it we might lose a few here but she makes a slope of stick and this is the moment where she’ll have a second to pause once she gets established on it up to the screw on heels up makes the clip and this is only really the only place they will be able to rest on this route properly but she quickly moves through it head back pumped already trying to keep a heart rate down as she contemplates the rest she’s about halfway through right now drop me in order to drop into that undercling bumps up and another huge rock over move this route using all the shoulder muscles back muscles as well as finger strength in order to get your way up it lisa going well at the moment getting encouragement from the crowd you can tell she’s having to fight now looks at left where that crimp is a huge split move comes back down she’s gonna have to get the left up but she does and now she needs to come out to that strange looking volume with the hole right in the middle of it into the crimp but it’s gonna be a bump right which she sticks up again and fight we lose lisa great fight from her so she sets the high point seven athletes to go remember eight qualified on the 26 in the semi-finals let’s see a replay there so she’s in the pocket up to the final rail crimp there you can see above her head so she came didn’t quite have enough in order to stop that swing latch onto that ledge that little crimp so callie close will be joining us next from team usa now kelly’s more of a speed climber there she is she was third earlier on this week in speed 10th in salt lake city in speed in may as well so starting now to develop her skills move into lead a little bit more and yesterday she managed to really make the knee bar on the semi-final route work for her get got a good rest there and saved enough for the head wall so and that was an interesting move because it was one the route setters did not expect they thought there might be a potential for a stacked knee bar but kali managed to get it in fully let’s see if she can find some ways through this lead route and as you can see 182 centimeters fairly tall and strong showing from her yesterday in that marathon of a semi-finals we all enjoyed watching she’s climbed in multiple senior world cups four speed it’s great to see a speed climber really start to do more lead competitions and excel in it as well so into the corner for cali nice straight arms there resting well that’s first slightly awkward move let’s bump into the jug and then a little cut loose move in order to swing around to the right which she does nicely look at the flexibility from cali there stretching way out right i shall bump into that good underclaimed cali now decide to use the jug then the undercling stands high on that left foot making an easy clip there’s cali hold 19 for her needs a novak setting the 40 plus as the high point that’s where kelly will need to get to she doesn’t know that’s the high point she’s been waiting back in the isolation area all her job is is to climb as far as she can big swing there holding it nicely this is an awkward move but she makes fingers slipping slipping and we lose kelly close on the big jug that is an awkward move that slopey surface it’s better towards the back of it but you have to get up and into it in order to make that work and she was just a little low there kelly should be pleased with that performance awesome for her to make finals and team usa of course such a strong supportive team let’s watch this again into these pinches needed to get really high on it slapped once slapped twice fingers slipping down trying to find some friction and finally the left not quite working down cali comes will be out next from the czech republic czech republic team a real depth to their squad we’re discussing it yesterday but when you have the likes of adam andre at least get adam obscure as well on that team then well you’ve got a good support network some good experience to pull on and she has won gold medals multiple medals in her time especially in lead continental youth cup was her last gold and a strong lead climber especially outdoors i sent a plus before 7c so certainly up at the level we’d expect these lead climbers to be at interesting three holes there at the start choice for the athletes which one they use that actually comes with a high heel into the big red volume up to the pinch and again heading towards the corner some interesting holds there nice features you can see there’s big white volumes with pockets in them some of them more juggy than the others that one not too bad the one further up way more sloping so kelly close sitting in second position at the moment lisa novak in first at the very top no problems early on from marquette so it’s 10 10 russian time at the moment so 9 10 central european times if you’re having your breakfast good morning i think there’s somewhere else in the world well good evening good super early morning marquette entering flower power now going well so far it’s overhanging roots should suit her she’s a regular kilimanos so we all know the overhangs that take place on that greek island and look at that little toe jam there underneath and smart climbing i hadn’t seen that from any other athletes it’d be interesting to see if that’s something that we see more often as this finals progresses using the heel instead of a toe for a moment there it looks like she was coming backwards but managed to make the bump well and once you get through this petal feature which kicks the wall back even more overhanging now this is the move that did for caddy close you have to really get stood up high high on this in order to make this red volume work as she takes a second to chalk up and reaches through fairly easily on that one let’s climb seven eight c in her time strong climate you can see that lovely shot thumb on the volume fingers on the screw on takes a little second to pause but it is awkward you can see that right here almost sitting right down on it now gets the left heel in and again good footwork stacking those feet in order to rest a little better but with the bodyweight way over to the left it is a bit awkward there’s only so much you can recover on a rest like that and it’s a it’s a bit of a balancing act isn’t it gonna get enough back but if you stay too long then you aren’t gonna recover fully it’s just a chance to rest a little bit and these resistant style roots have really been a feature of the youth world championships so far a way to separate more bouldery athletes from specialist perhaps you can’t just power your way through these routes you have to have something in the tank and now she’s having to fight snatches at that quick drop up to the crimp and she needs to find something here in order to get something back i think out to the side pull and this is another crimpy move that she doesn’t quite manage to stick big cross through you can see starting to struggle there sits down faces the wall cameraman comes in that’s what you want isn’t it but that’s part of it isn’t it this is part of this youth circuit is dealing with that pressure that scrutiny not only from people watching but from coaches athletes and cameramen and that was a move crossing through into the crimp so marquetta leaves the auditorium anika stuka will be up next from austria so we’re three athletes into this use a final after this we’ll be watching the juniors on the same route the route setters might tweak a little things they’re watching this trying to analyze their calculations have been correct and they will make a few changes perhaps between the categories but right now anika walks onto the stage she’s 15. you’re being since 2019 and in pers she was ninth in her last competition best this year was sixth in lead into the slope initially and bridging out left just off screen there onto the under the side wall good clipping method there using those thumbs and that’s something if you’re amateur climbing watching this you’ll know that clipping one of those things the pros make it look so easy but it can actually be a feature of the route these clips the route setters making occasional clip quite tricky comes into the undercling first of all then to the crimp and then we’ll look to bump that right hand up but she does let’s see if she does this toe jam in there i think she has has she stacked her feet there not quite but for a second she had it in coming towards cali closes third position at the moment a couple of moves off that sets herself up for this bump which she makes chalk’s up again this is a tricky little sequence this needs to come out to a left pinched it if you are struggling a little bit it’s hard and we lose her from that pinch that is tricky that section this route hard straight away moment you pull on it does take everything let’s watch this again she was bumping around a few times trying to chalk up looking for a better foot perhaps needed maybe that left foot high on the volume that little triangular volume you can see nika leaves the stage hard to read the emotions there one of those athletes who is in a bubble in her world throughout i always find it fascinating seeing how the different athletes deal with the different emotions and stresses of competition climbing so we’re halfway through four athletes done arena franklin hurt anika’s teammate will be out next from austria out she comes mask off for climbing she was 30th in speed earlier on this week but leads really where her focus is at fourth in her last lead competition no medals yet will this be the day no top so far on this route but some strong athletes to come but a very difficult route for everybody here arena working her way across into these pocket features into the corner for the first clip and reaches out shouldering moves on those crimps it’s all about getting through this first section as fresh as possible because this next sequence before the little rest is as we’ve seen tricky the first crux the double bump and the high toe open crimp step on those crimps closed crimp is when you would wrap the thumb around over the top and these athletes will be training that open crimp and there you can see the closed crimp on the right hand side with that one just wrapping the thumb a little bit puts more pressure through the fingers feels a bit more secure but one of those things you need to train in order to do it safely and she gets the left foot up easily this time fighting though takes a second to chalk up on that slopey pinch but makes the ball pretty easily up she goes onto the slope this is her moment just to pause try to get something back clip in very high left heel in order to rest crowd dropped silent halfway through currently in third position that left foot swinging backwards out into that iron cross move shoulders having to work so hard as she brings the undercling and then up to the clip where she matches having to fight the pump hitter quickly there didn’t it third position though 32 40 plus from lisa novak is looking pretty good the first athlete out at the moment let’s see a replay of that this was where you could see the pump was kicking in got that high foot and you’d want to ideally lock that off with one hand and go up but she needed to match it feet trying to find purchase ariane comes off the mat so we wait a couple of minutes here alexander totkova will be out next i was here in the stadium pretty early this morning and she was there with her coaches having a sit looking focused calm alexandra todd cover one of the certainly one of the favorites for this competition just because of her experience she’s been a regular on the senior lead scene brienne song she was eighth shamany third position a bronze medal for her already in the senior competitions part of team bulgaria which has to be said has had a strong a strong team here this week for the youth champs a lot of depth in that squad so it’d be exciting watching them come through into the senior circuit in the years to come easy to forget alexander is just 16. has a bright future we’ll be seeing a lot more of her in the upcoming seasons makes a clip of the corner see thumb in the bolt hold there is a loud they block them if they really don’t want the athletes to use them but trust me they are tiny little holes it’s just a extra purchase especially with the thumbs sometimes now we all remember bro rabbits who’s uh standing in one of the screw-on holds on the wall itself unbelievable in salt lake city it’s that bouldering comp no problem so far for alexander out to the jug cuts loose swings round she’s climbed multiple eight c’s in her time more a pluses than you’d care to remember it’s a strong outdoor climber as well as a plastic warrior currently in sixth on the graphic on the left coming up to anika’s fifth place position this is where things start to get difficult right hand on the slope up to the pinch deciding not to put the high left foot in but had the reaching the power to do that now finds the left foot and she’ll drop a knee right down in order to get up onto that red ball a little swing and then check out that screw hold on top big moves and alexander here and a high double heels he’ll look such a feature of these modern lead routes at the moment and the different stars of the athletes climbing flexibility training the ability to rest on those heels and use them something we’ve seen develop more and more in competition climbing she slightly loses the right foot there you can see just you need to put so much weight on it especially in that split position and the second there isn’t weight going through your feet you have little pops like that but she recovers from it well brings the left out and in slightly different style here goes up with the left and has to match so halfway through the route for alexander cover in third position currently just underneath marquette yeah score 35 plus she’s on 34 bumping up and moving into third position and second now she competed in speed earlier this week coming 23rd and now she needs some of that speed power for this section of the route thinks about clipping down low and drops the move up to the crimp so second place of alexander the top cover lisa novak score of 40 plus is looking more and more impressive let’s watch a replay of that she’s there was this little clip that we thought she was going to make down low decided to continue bumps up for the crimp and just a low on it not on top of it so second place for alexandre yeah lisa novak came out first and obviously the first climber out it’s always hard to make a call on whether it’s a good score or an average score but turns out 40 plus with six athletes to go is sorry two athletes to go is the number one position that’s what they have to beat but sarah chopka will be out next for slovenia sarah choppa walks to the mats what can she do 16 168 centimeters tall hasn’t got any medals at the moment see a slovenian climber you almost expect them to win don’t you but a lot of development in that squad as well a lot of them using dom and scoff it’s new climbing wall very an amazing new facility in slovenia because climbing walls in slovenia are something that has been developed more and more recently but until fairly recently they haven’t necessarily had these facilities sarah topped out the semi-final route yesterday one of two athletes to do it see if she’s managed to recover overnight alicia mabony the second athlete to top a route she’ll be out last here straight arms into the corner feet way out left and now bumps into the big jug and an easy swing around we’ve seen most of the athletes do he looks from the ground like a bit of a pop that bit of a jump but athlete’s able to do it statically sorry into this crimpy first crux hard to see some of those screw ons there are some tick marks but they are again small so you just have to sort of go up hoping they’re going to be there speed could be a factor here if she tops it out and alicia from italy tops it out as well it’s going to go back to time because they both top the route in the semi-finals so perhaps speed a factor but at the moment as we’ve seen it’s really proving very difficult just getting through the head wall at the moment it’s hard makes a clipper managing to make that rest look quite better than the others perhaps more in control at this moment leans way back using a sort of bicycle style toe hook inset press outside foot press in order to get that rest now crosses through into the underclings she’ll unwind her body out right it’s that little swing with the leg to balance powerful moves throughout on this 40 plus is the score to be at the moment and she moves towards marquetta’s third place position looking good at the moment slight bump on this one and now some hesitation as she tries to work out the foot placements for this big move into the crimp which he makes and then such a high foot another huge rock over move coming up left hand through to the crimps and this big volume with the pocket in it beckoning you can’t really see it from that angle and she won’t be able to see it but it’s sloppy second place at the moment 38 moving towards first position [Applause] high left foot moves into the lead with 40 and now we get to see this head wall in action still in control still calm plenty of time as well left out onto the slopers [Applause] and the root set is sticking in a bunch of crimps nearing the top of this route [Applause] out onto the crimps nearing the top now slapping up 46 is the new high point to beat one clip away from the top sarah chop up moves into first position let’s watch the replay of this again you can see those small crimps high up on the wall that’s the last clip athletes can just concentrate on climbing at this point no need to worry about awkward clips at this point it’s just sending it to the end and slaps up so with no top so far it’s going to come down to a straight fight so alessia maboni will be joining us next and it is going to be a straight fight for her she just she knows well she doesn’t know what she needs to do but we know what she needs to do and that is just to climb as high as possible it’s not going to come down to time or anything like that will count back she gets the same score alicia has won medals before fact silver in her last competition until fairly recently until this year she was more of a boulder up and again wearing the funkier socks around she was doing this yesterday in a semi-final and we’re talking about it because most climbers do climb with bare feet in shoes in order to avoid any kind of rubbing in there any movement and also because it’s fairly hot are we seeing a new style a new way of climbing come through i’m gonna go out immediately and buy some socks it’ll make me climb 8c guaranteed out into the corner then she topped out the root in some style yesterday wonderful to watch her first senior world cup was in brienne’s song this year so she’s announced to the world her intentions 42nd there which is good for a first senior world cup it’s such a step up there’s a different atmosphere as well between moving between these youth comps and the senior comps and lots of athletes move back and forth for a while when they’re still in the age categories just in order to get as much experience as possible alicia with the high heel deciding better of it bumping up with the left determined enjoyment on her face there i think she makes a high clip above her head crosses through with the left then matches it’s great watching her climb she has a different style from a lot of the other athletes finding new beats at whether it’s right or not it’s debatable but it’s it’s great to watch up into the first rest which isn’t really a rest as we know check second to shake out chalk up alicia having to fight here a little bit with yesterday’s semi-final heroics taken out of her a bit out towards the tick mark gets it now she’ll look for a high left heel and lay right back arms straight in order to try to get something back [Music] stop the qualification routes as well so tops all the way through for her as did sarah chopra as well to be fair both these two athletes perhaps slightly different league at the moment [Music] so a tight competition all the way through this youth a female finals now climbing slightly quicker this is a big move she has to do now gets her foot in a huge split position and statically finds the crimp which is blocked you need to be precise on it out towards the right team italy getting behind her now she bumps into the pocket looks down and makes the clip down by her knees and we lose her in second position and that’s going to mean sarah choppa will take the win with 46 plus no top so far and i think fatigue just starting to kick in for her there as we watch a replay of that fall bumping that right hand elbows coming out getting the left up and then this tiny crimp doesn’t allow much and you have to be accurate you can see just not quite on it properly head in her hands as she came down so second position for her silver medal her second silver of this season and that is confirmation of the results sarah choppa in first position alicia maboni in second lisa novak who came out in third in first position in third and what a tight competition that was you can see all in the 40s and throughout this week here in verona these three athletes have been neck and neck pretty much just exchanging tops all the way especially the top two sarah and alicia really wasn’t much to call between them so the athletes are announced we just see a little replay of sarah’s winning run that was the initial crux and they’re being announced now onto stage congratulations to everyone hugs that’s great to see two slovenians the podium and sarah choppa adds another medal to that stacked slavinian trophy cabinet they exit the stage i will take a little moment here the route setters will be cleaning the route and perhaps tweaking it i’ll keep an eye on that for you to let you know if they change anything they might do might make it harder easier we’ll see they’ve certainly immediately got the cherry picker out you can see it down on the bottom right they’ll go to clean it and make some adjustments so we’ll be back soon for the junior female lead finals the stream will continue don’t go anywhere but do take a moment just to relax and take a break if this isn’t relaxing for you i know my hands are sweaty this is the only stream that we have today these two finals but don’t you worry you can go back and watch all of the action from yesterday they’re all available on the ifsc youtube channel subscribe to that follow along all the action from this week we’ve got photographers videographers everyone working hard to give these youth climbers the best possible exposure in russia we’re watching sarah’s run here so enjoy the replays we’ll let the route setters do their thing and we’re back with you soon for the junior female lead finals i can’t wait yes guys um uh um you need a burger the world um um um is literally uh i got stuff welcome back everybody to the junior female lead finals athletes are being announced right now onto the stage same route as we watch the youth a i didn’t see the root setters making much tweaks and this is our eight women who come out for the observation time it’s gonna be an interesting finals this we’ve already seen eight athletes on this route so we know some of the difficulties that face them no tops so far from anyone so be interesting to see if anyone can unlock the sequences the beta the physicality needed for this route so they turn getting ready to study it i’ll be working as you can see sometimes in pairs sometimes with friends sometimes in teammates sharing beta working it out is all part of climbing and it’s something that’s installed early on in the mentality of competition climbers which is great to see what was the situation so the athlete’s just taking some time here to work it out some of them in binoculars on so they can try to work out the intricacies of this route swiss athletes chile france slovenia russia czech republic and japan are all represented three athletes competing today topped the semi-final routes they all topped that semi-final route because of that they’re coming out last in this position so that is ignacius quinteros the only chilean athlete in his final strides towards the wall to check out these first couple of holes they’re allowed to touch the first couple of holes in order to get an understanding of what the positions will be in what it will feel like on the wall ignacio had such huge support from the chilean team they were right below our commentary box they went absolutely crazy when she walked up the stairs to join them yesterday really cool to see lots of support for all these athletes of course let’s see a tarkis there with the red hair an up and coming star of the slovenian team one of the ones to watch for sure any russian athlete in this final daria zensevia beginning support of her home crowd binoculars out for no know how that checking out the top section of this route trying to work out what the crimps look like from the ground as we all know if you’re a climate so the athletes last couple of seconds to observe the intricacies of this route is our starting board joelle niederberger will be out first kumai coming last athletes as always climbing in the order which they qualify to the athlete out first will have qualified last and then qualified first and although the top three six seven and eight they all top the route there will be count back sorts of qualifications in order to separate them and it does mean when we get lots of tops in the semi-final that theoretically if they all top it in the final then we’ll be looking at time in order to separate them is okay okay uh qualifications so we’ve just been analyzing the stats there and it i don’t think it will be come back to time because of the separation the qualifying and the semi-final round so we’ll keep you updated but it is tight here at the top for the junior females but time will tell this route so far has proved to be a real separator no tops at the moment and quite spread out scores but of course everything might change with the juniors so i’ll wait and see but joelle niederberger will be out first of all uh i think it’s changed i think it goes back to so we’re about to get underway here a couple of seconds remaining that’s our route on the right that white and red just joining us we’ve already had the junior sorry the youth a females already climbing on this wall that was earlier on in the stream now it’s the time of the juniors joel niederberger will be out next should be coming out that bottom left-hand side of the screen walking over the mats onto the red and white root on the far right you can see a variety of volumes waiting on the wall the root setters can’t put up all the roots otherwise the athletes would get to see them so they have a very busy job running around setting all the routes they’ve already planned them set them tried them gonna be interesting as it always is between the two categories of climbers i think in other sports we see age as such a sort of a separator almost whereas in climbing well how many times we watch young crushers send unbelievable things but it does come down to experience for competition and some of the older climbers in the older categories they will have a little bit more experience sometimes the ability to deal with the pressure sometimes that does play a part in separating them a little brief moment of pause here the athletes will be backstage there’s a certain amount of time they have to get ready coming up to 10 past 11 central european time so we’re back there nervously waiting their moment in spotlight junior female lead finals got a pack schedule tomorrow as well pack schedule all week in fact lots going on here in verona the youth world championships and of course the ifc circuit will continue after this off to slovenia then the world champs in moscow so packed a couple of weeks some of the athletes who are competing here i’m sure we’ll be there mixing it up a little bit so the officials are ready we’re ready we just need the athletes to appear and i can see flutterings behind the curtains thumbs up all round we’re poised so here we go representing team switzerland joel niederberger will be out first she walks across the bottom of the mats reminding herself of the route she’s 18. speaking all the way back since 2017 so this is the experience i was talking about she’ll understand these competitions she’ll know the pressures the stresses involved no medals for her so far in her competition career but lots of final appearances so she gets us underway now we know the drill on this route comes into the corner traverses out right and then straight up the middle of this overhanging wall and there is our graphic on the left to show the positions obviously in first position as the first athlete out and it is quite awkward this beginning sometimes straightforward starts this is not one of those it’s physical at the beginning immediately difficult gives them a taste of things to come i’m sure they’re sitting there hoping that it will get easier i’m afraid it doesn’t let’s challenge these athletes shall we so joelle looking good at the moment just pressing myself into the corner there quite an awkward position it’s a good crimp you can see the chalk all the way up her arm i should be using that at some point just patting it on the arm also stops the sweat running down a little cut loose coming up here feet up to the left [Applause] she pops holds it nice little swing out towards the right into the undercling and up she goes using a very high heel this is a position we haven’t seen before not sure how efficient that was because it’s a big cut loose in order to get through that she’s breathing hard already needs to do a big move up to the crimp which he makes and again a heel a lot of athletes going up with the toe on that hold heels are good but sometimes we see little pops going on and she loses it on the first sloper early fall from joelle well that’s an indication isn’t it as if we didn’t need one of how difficult this route is let’s watch that again she was looking a little bit out of it with the beats got this split moving with the right heel stuck it for a second couldn’t keep it together but our high point is set and as we saw the competition before lisa novak set a high point and stuck with it for a long time [Music] so second athlete out will be zoe ellie she’s competing in senior competitions in villars in switzerland that misty competition we had a couple of months ago now she’s 19. and her sister just missed out on this final in ninth position she was bumped down at the very end of the competition i thought for a second we were gonna get two swiss sisters which would have been cool to see but zoe represents the ellie family here [Applause] up she goes to the left now makes a higher clip [Applause] matches this little ball feature looking slightly more comfortable than joelle did at this stage do well found quite an awkward little position here with that high crimp that was it there she was resting on so he decides to move through more quickly feet out to the left little pop out and a cut loose that’s the end of this initial section of the route the route setters do more and more of this kind of setting where we break the route down into different parts bump out to the crib which will catch the undercling next and this is where joella started to struggle a little bit on this section she went for the high heel rest which seemed more difficult to get out of than the rest afforded making easier work of this section toe up instead of a heel this time i’m twisting in with the right foot into the slopers and into first position currently up to the ball i meant to work hard a little bit there almost comes backwards manages to hold it with the left hand oh and we lose a full on the big red volumes we’re going to watch a replay of that in a second this route so far shutting down the juniors early on here let’s see what happens so she’s in the ball feature needs to make a big move up with the left hand but she does an adjustment and then the peel off slipping down two athletes two early falls what a competition this is so far zoe will leave the stage comes back into the holding area on the left-hand side as the belair clears out the box with the rope leaving the stage clear for our next athlete ignacio meadow quinteros will join us there she is from chile great to see so many countries represented here at the youth world championships ifc doing a great job of getting everybody over she’s 18 36 in shamany for the senior lead competed in vlars innsbruck in bouldering and leeds so one of those athletes who’s really making this transition into the senior circuit now just a little bit of speed as well some bouldering along the way just one gold in the combined in the pan american use championships so her speed climbing coming in useful right into the corner now see it takes a second to chalk up such a very low chalk bag there hasn’t she hanging right down works for her obviously into the slopers to start things off and there’s a slightly awkward first section out towards that little crimp pops off the pinky out into the crimps and hips close to the wall now she crosses through into the pinches and then gets a high foot [Applause] so none of the juniors so far getting past the initial rest which isn’t really a rest we should stop calling it a rest the initial moment to shake out after the flower power section here actually comes into the crimps now gets the toe on matches you know if you can hear in the background a bit of noise but the bouldering qualification rounds are going on for other categories that are focused right now he’s on the lead climbing solidly at the moment good footwork in control into that clip and having to work now a little bit bump that right hand she’s looking out for the left sticks it with low feet and now a big move up onto the ball and this is where we lost [Applause] joelle earlier on matches now and this is the move to move into first position she’s slightly missed that screw on though now bumps it over now gets it and with the double high heel she should take a second here just to clip chalk up and shake out matching that nicely should be looking for the tick mark out on the right hand side on that dish gets it and she’s moving easily into first at the moment next section of the route does feature some quite difficult big rock over moves high feet shoulder presses [Music] [Applause] yeah the crowd’s going absolutely crazy for her he can hear [Applause] not just team chile but all the teams giving her encouragement the team chile screaming at the wall great to see she makes progress now she’s not gonna let him down is she shaking out setting the new high points here big crossover with the right hand how is she still going relentless from her now the bump with the right this could be tricky though because now she’s going to have to somehow match comes back down she needs to get the left hand on that hold it is blocked it’s tricky to get this could be the moment for her pulls up hesitates crosses with the left and this finally that’s the move that undid her what a performance kept on going even though she looked tired and she’ll be up into first position right now well three athletes done a new high point set chilly in the lead at the moment thumbs up and she’ll leave the stage in the hot seat number one position remember with that uh the throne they set up i want a russian throne where is it i’ll try to organize it we’ll spray paint a chair or something [Music] so out next will be camille puget from france the new high point set though you see an athlete breach through that initial crux section down low here he is camille appreciate another athlete with medals to her name multiple over the years 2016 she started competing gold in switzerland last in lead she’s done well in bouldering too so powerful athlete with endurance the match will we see that high point just set big nasia go down let’s see crosses through into the dish out to the left and then into the corner feature team france well represented at these youth world championships that’s her task ahead of her currently in fourth coming up on niederberger’s time time score [Applause] horizontal now as she eyes up this next section this little pop out [Applause] [Applause] out towards the crimp two methods to do that really either go into the undercling first of all or bump out to the crimp so first crux how will she do this physically bumps up and actually look to get a higher left toe certainly the way to do it rather than that heel method we saw earlier [Music] out towards the sloper it’s a bit of a shocking start in terms of how hard this is for these athletes so let’s take a deep breath at this point and realize there’s going to be a fight all the way into the awkward ball so in control camille bougie at the moment in third position a second now she gets upgraded on her score legs swinging out to the right to balance that swing managing to find rest in good positions here second quinteros escort still high up the wall away from here [Applause] this is her last year as a junior competitor very much into her training paris 2024 is where her focus will be for bouldering her aim is climb 8b plus outdoors so rock climbing and plastic climbing she does it all and now makes this cross through move gets the clip and if she moves through here she will be in first position she is now [Applause] up until the pocket [Applause] great route from the route setters it’s really separating the athletes up until the crimp camille pouches going from strength to strength on this route hasn’t made the clip yet matches and now should bring that left hand down makes the clip last couple of holds for her the head wall above her [Applause] tiny feet in order to make this little tiptoe traverse to the left [Applause] out towards the dish starting to fight now fingers just holding on give me lebron new high point 46 for her near the top but still no tops will that be enough looks up with smiles on her face she did seem to just improving confidence throughout that route yeah she seems happy with that performances she should be let’s watch it again this final crimpy section it’s always the root setters this is something they seem to be putting in a lot during these youth world championships physicality down low and then crimps at the end that feeling when your arms are pumped just trying to lock off a crimp on a holder crimp so difficult sarah choppa’s score was 46 plus in the earlier round so higher from the youth a at the moment than the juniors sorry she was higher score than the youth a just so we’re seeing progression on this route the athletes piecing the deal sorry 46 plus there we go so slightly higher up than the youth a by the plus so a new high point on the route let’s see at tarkus from slovenia this is a young woman who might win this competition she has gold medals to her name she won in zelena she’s won bronzes silvers true contender to climb this she’s moved into the senior circuit this year 26th in brian song 14th in villars so it just shows she’s got such potential but as we know just breaking into the slovenian team is hard enough so let’s see what she can do here for the youth champs again thumb in that butthole are allowed to do that root setters will block it off they don’t want to it doesn’t really give very much she’s a very good boulderer and that could play an important part in this route block masters in 2020 she made the finals that’s a bouldering competition except how powerful some of the moves are some of the sequences could play an important factor to have that bouldering power in your back pocket [Applause] and this is the first of the baldery sequences now out to the crimps up she goes stretched out rocking up hi hands just looking around the corner though in order to see that crimp again using the same method left foot up then the right cross up with the right hand should bring our hands into match right now see it tarkus in fourth position currently so she made it through this bouldery sequence up towards the rest and her bouldering prowess is certainly doing a proud here she’s one of the few slovenian athletes who can make bouldering finals think of yanya luka rakovich mia crumple some of the other ones who can therefore it will make a great all-rounder for paris perhaps the future of slovenian climbing watching right now i did say this is an opportunity to see the future olympians we could be seeing one right now gets up to the dish bumps over onto the screw-on civilian team right next to us in the commentary box splitting their time between the bouldering behind us and lucia on the lead wall they don’t know where to look they’re like watching a tennis match back and forth great support from everyone here in the stadium so lucia crossing through slightly awkward sequence this she’s matched now gets the left brings the right into that undercling so much body tension required in that move and up to that little tiny crimp see it resting her way through it trying to be careful with each move doesn’t want to be snatching at anything up to the crimson breathing hard now nearing canteros’s second position currently at 33 aiming for 38 and of course way up that 46 plus from camille peugeot that will take some beating [Music] let’s see it tarkus stretches up high onto that tiny little hole around the corner for a second and then easily up with the left hand we’ve seen a few people get a bit confused they’re trying to go up with the right have to come down tia tarkis moves into second now 38 on the scoreboard bumps right another bump into this pocket which she sticks right into the meat now into the technical section of this route 40 her score 46 plus is what she’s aiming for she won’t know that of course we have the the benefit of knowing exactly where she’s got to get to but for her she’s just climbing as high as she can battling the pump the fatigue and this is such an awkward section you can see just tiny feet in order to make this traverse to the left bumps the right up 44 her score needs 46 plus [Applause] matches and this is where you’re gonna have to start to crimp this is where you need your fingers to obey you high up with the left eye is the next hole she moves ever closer to camilla poussier’s high point 45. oh slight slip there with the left creeps away out right 46 47 she will move into the lead [Music] coming closer to the top snatches misses but 48 climbs with intention and well into a new high point what a fantastic route this is from the setters each athlete having to step it up watch a little replay of her fall so lucia tarkos leaves us uh so next athlete out will be russian daria she lives in if i said that right which is in siberia and a little fun fact for you her home is further away from veronica than the ifsc headquarters are in milan from where we currently are so huge distances she has to travel not milan but just shows that the distance from torino to here is the same as from where she lives in russia to here this gives you an idea of the scale of the country that we’re currently in daria slightly shorter climb and we saw her struggling with that in the semi-finals having to work out some different beta height never really an issue in climbing it’s just an excuse often it’s what i use regularly it just means you have to work out different ways to do sequences hasn’t had many competitions under a belt the one she has done she’s done well in 2020 she was sixth in lead 2021 fourth heavily strapped up shoulders there preventative measure usually tape so let’s see how she works out some of these sections reaches up high this would be a bit more of a pop for her than the other athletes and it is you can see having to cut loose a little earlier in order to make that work it’s one of those athletes where it looks like she might be in trouble but somehow just keeps on going relentlessly alexander totkova is the other athlete immediately comes to mind who has that style where you think any moment she’s coming off but nope she’s still around she’s done well in the russian championships as well silver medal for her and certainly a bit out of the blue she’s come from nowhere and could really represent again the next level of russian climbing she uses a high heel and a different beater coming up with the right hand that looks awkward though because she’s gonna have to match it surely not she might have found herself into a difficult position here with that match that would have taken something out of her the high right heel i told you there’d be different beta and that it’s fascinating to see now she needs to make this big slap up right we’ve seen her walking around the stadium laser focused it’s not the most dynamic climber around and that actually could suit her for this so many high rock overs and presses but this is going to be tricky for her a bit out of reach look at that statically does it now cuts loose and again a different method oh my eyes are watering as i watch that knee position how does she twist into that my old bones creaking as i watch that and again that same position with the left heels such flexibility from this young athlete and her height here playing an advantage i mean she can rest far easier if she was a little taller she’d be more scrunched up more uncomfortable now she swings out right climbing methodically interesting beta 28 her score currently in fourth position should be aiming for that 38 of quinteros the double bump the high toe looks like she’s going from strength to strength here finding confidence presses up underneath not even really looking to where the hold is instinctively knowing where it is a big cross through and low feet out now onto the presses out with the right that could be an issue unless you can match it somehow and i wouldn’t put anything past her at the moment now now she drops down with the left no back to the right how is she going to match this let’s watch this sequence i know she’s going to have to go left but she does i tell you what her endurance is pretty amazing to watch here she actually trains on only an 11 meter wall does it by going up and down and up and down so the fact she’s still here just coach is doing something right up she comes high onto the crimp fingers scrunched up brings it right now 41 is her score in third bumps inaussia down into fourth look at that heel position ballerina like toes towards the floor that flexibility oh just pops the foot manages to hold it having to fight now the last section of the route misses the slap up and it’s third for her as it stands that was great to watch wasn’t it yeah she was actually a ballerina before she started to be a climber so that downwards toe towards the ground that’s how she found that and that is the move i was talking about great climber to watch completely different style and beat it from the other athletes and one for the future russia climbing bright for her so time for the czech republic to represent michelle smith will be out next daria goes to join her fellow athletes down in the holding area that’s hard to tell at the moment it could be anyone’s game still two more athletes to climb michaela smitanova will be out next from the czech republic out she comes another athlete with medals to her name she won the continental youth cup in imps and she was second silver medal for her good watching her climb yesterday as well so two athletes to go and we have our high points set from camille poussier sorry lucia tarkis she competed in shamany for the senior cup coming 33rd and she’s been transitioning all season in fact so innsbruck both lead and boulder brianne song in 2020 making a break for the senior circuit here comes from the same hometown as adam andre no pressure so it makes high clips right in the corner of this wall eyes up the next part of the route coming to the right just joining us we’re at the end or coming to the end of the climbing youth world championships junior female lead final live here on the ifsc my name is matt groom and i’m being helped and assisted by my wonderful teammates we have a small team out here in russia but everyone working incredibly hard so thank you to everyone who’s putting in all the effort i hope you guys are enjoying it back at home i know i am it’s been a great week so far and we’ve got a lot of climbing to come so miguel miguel coming into the flower power section up to the crimps she’ll be looking for a big bump out to the left with a high toe all of the athletes in this junior finals climbing slowly and steadily through this sections what you have to do you got to pace yourself through this part up she comes into the pinchy sloper arms wrapped around that sloper now and a big bump up she almost drops it’s hard to get that screw on hold in the first attempt look how closely matched that top three is they’re overlapping each other on our graphic falling in a similar place right on the head wall and the crimps that’s where mikaela needs to get to okay they’re starting to struggle here a little bit almost lost it on that match that’s a snatch into the underclicking snatching the crimp she could be in trouble here out to the right now takes a deep breath in order to compose herself high high feet with a big rock up but that took something out of her she does the match one of the first signs that she could be in trouble needs to come up with the left eyes it reaches up smooth at that time and crosses through onto the crimps but i think she’s a little tired here that right arm starting to come back on her as she comes out holds the swing every move a bit of a fight for her and yeah she comes down coming up to that crimp so that’s not going to be enough for the podium and only one more athlete can do it at this point no no no no kumai will be out last competing the only one who can knock let’s hear turkish off the top spot let’s watch a replay of that yeah this is where she started to struggle and almost left it you can see having to really snatch almost before she was ready just catching it on her fingertips really fighting all the way it’s perhaps looking a little bit tired so finally nanoha kumi will be out last to compete one of the joys of watching these youth competitions is we get to see first-time athletes really in the know-how although she’s very experienced in japanese tournaments best score sixth for bouldering but we haven’t really seen her on the ifsc circuit at all and yet here she is qualifying first position for our finals so it’s a fresh look at this young athlete she’s 17. and this could be an eye on the future powers of the crowd gets ready reachy start for her smearing with the right foot and then into the root itself and immediately using interesting beat up with a high right foot there in order to rock up this japanese team’s so good at using rests using every advantage they can get out of the route a final athlete you’d see it targus will be watching nervously from the holding area that’s our wall that’s where she’s at so through the first section unscathed looking fresh at the moment that is our top three lucia tacos 48 plus community pougier on 46 plus and daria zentsev third with 45 plus that’s what she needs to do no no in order to break into the podium all down to her now ian vert on the corner of the wall there taking the shots getting the baggers up she bumps with the right a quick draw right in the middle of the petal shaped feature there the pollen in the middle if you will too fancy bear with me no no moves into eighth position with 21. about a third of the way up this route dances defeat to the left still looking fresh isn’t she high reach up and she’ll have to wrap her arms onto this red volume i always think watching the japanese climb is how i would ideally like to climb i wake up in the morning and i think i’m going to climb like a japanese athlete i never do just to show how strong this japanese team is he was 34th in the lead japan lead cup this year so 16th in bouldering so there’s a huge depth of athletes misses the foot once sticks it the second time keeps in control though this is the move that michelle just now looks a little bit awkward on this reach through into the underclings climbing slightly quicker now needs to get through this section as physical as that big rock over move is there’s a different set of muscles allows them just to rest their fingers for a sec looks down at the clock plenty of time in sixth at the moment 48 plus is where she needs to be 33 is where she’s currently at reaches up to the crimps closes it off she’s through the first half unscathed as she comes into the vertical head wall of this route and it says big head wall on this wall head wall is the final section of a route usually vertical and here in veronas on this particular side of the wall it is large the left-hand crosstroop reads that beta well seems easier to go up with the right but matches on the crimps now left foot pressed against the wall an inside flag now bumps it up onto the crimp reaches to the sloppy side pull bumps the right foot up eyes up the pocket on the left which she gets and bumps out nearing that 45 plus she’ll move into second position high on this wall falls and she will be in second position which means no she’s going to be bumped up we think we’re waiting for confirmation of this and there is confirmation 48 plus will be the victory for nanohacume lutsia tarkis in second just due to the count back same score for the finals come back to semis making the difference here so close to making that crimp work so we said that she was fairly unknown and this fairly unknown athlete has just won the junior female lead final holding her arm there and it’s like she wasn’t disappointed you’ve just won enjoy this moment maybe she doesn’t know and now now the smile breaks onto her face there is a tear in there he’s so composed walking over let’s see otakus comes to greet her a truly fantastic effort from her what a climb how much talent is in japan right now that is the confirmation the nohakumate will win on 48 plus siatakas in second camille poujay who help a high point for so long in this final on 46 plus she will take the bronze medal and we watch the athletes there at the bottom of your screen line up the podiums will actually be awarded later on this evening this is for you at home to see the top three japan slovenia and france will walk away with the medals here this morning in the middle you’ve won i think it started to sink in you can see she’s emotional in this moment oh don’t tear up i’ll tear up great to watch the athletes leave the stage that was a lot of fun great competition fist bumps all round and that is the end of our live stream action here in verona i’ve got qualifying going on all day which we aren’t broadcasting we will return tomorrow for another marathon of climbing packed action tomorrow so thank you to all the organizers here everyone who’s helped with these live streams my colleagues my name is matt groom and it’s been a pleasure calling all of the action for you today we will return very very soon medals handed out we move on with the youth championships have a lovely day everyone and make sure you go back and check all the live streams from the rest of the action that’s taken place this week you you
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IFSC Youth World Championships Voronezh 2021 || Lead final YA women & J women

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